Process
The blueprint for cutting the elements which make up a C. Chauchat tie. 1. PAPER PATTERNS The blueprint for cutting the elements which make up a C. Chauchat tie.
The length of the tie is cut precisely on the bias (diagonal to the edge) of the fabric. Proper cutting is an essential step in the process of any finely made garment and skilled cutters are highly prized in any atelier – it is crucial that the pattern is laid on the fabric at precisely the correct angle. Even a few degrees off, and the final garment will not hold its intended shape. In the case of neckties, a cutting job well done results in a relaxed face with no ripples -- a tie that hangs properly and moves flexibly. 2. CUTTING FABRIC The length of the tie is cut precisely on the bias (diagonal to the edge) of the fabric. Proper cutting is an essential step in the process of any finely made garment and skilled cutters are highly prized in any atelier – it is crucial that the pattern is laid on the fabric at precisely the correct angle. Even a few degrees off, and the final garment will not hold its intended shape. In the case of neckties, a cutting job well done results in a relaxed face with no ripples -- a tie that hangs properly and moves flexibly.
The signature technique in a C. Chauchat tie is the use of a combination of two or more layers of fabric as the front face of the tie. The top layer is always semi-sheer, a fabric such as a gauzy cotton or a translucent silk. This layer envelops a second fabric layer whose color, pattern and texture are blended with the screen above. Subtle color changes and a slight Moire effect results in the layering two fabrics. 3. ALIGNING LAYERS The signature technique in a C. Chauchat tie is the use of a combination of two or more layers of fabric as the front face of the tie. The top layer is always semi-sheer, a fabric such as a gauzy cotton or a translucent silk. This layer envelops a second fabric layer whose color, pattern and texture are blended with the screen above. Subtle color changes and a slight Moire effect results in the layering two fabrics.
The two layers are temporarily basted together by hand so that they don't slip when sewing a permanent stitch. 4. BASTING THE TIP The two layers are temporarily basted together by hand so that they don't slip when sewing a permanent stitch.
The bias cut wool interlining is laser cut for a precision shape in Italy. We approve of high tech when it enhances the quality! The interlining holds the shape of the tie, and is then hand tucked and sewn in. 5. TUCKING INTERLINING The bias cut wool interlining is laser cut for a precision shape in Italy. We approve of high tech when it enhances the quality! The interlining holds the shape of the tie, and is then hand tucked and sewn in.
The experienced hand rolls the back fold of the tie, making sure that the outer fabric isn't too tight over the inner layer, and both fabrics are spared any tension. 6. FOLDING THE TIE The experienced hand rolls the back fold of the tie, making sure that the outer fabric isn't too tight over the inner layer, and both fabrics are spared any tension.
Running up the backside of the tie enclosing the fabric over the interlining, the final slipstich is sewn by hand and is one continuous thread from front to tail pricking the interlining. The thread is tense enough to stay invisible, but loose enough to allow for the natural stretching of the fabric over time. Since every seamstress sews with their individual flair, similar to the individuality of handwriting, the identity of each sewer is stamped in the care of their unique stitch. 7. SLIPSTITCH Running up the backside of the tie enclosing the fabric over the interlining, the final slipstich is sewn by hand and is one continuous thread from front to tail pricking the interlining. The thread is tense enough to stay invisible, but loose enough to allow for the natural stretching of the fabric over time. Since every seamstress sews with their individual flair, similar to the individuality of handwriting, the identity of each sewer is stamped in the care of their unique stitch.
Our labels are sewn by hand of course – it is a nice finishing touch exemplifying the whole mien of our handmade ties. 8. SEWING LABEL Our labels are sewn by hand of course – it is a nice finishing touch exemplifying the whole mien of our handmade ties.

Photography by Ann Woo